Crossing Flores

In the afternoon of our 3rd day in Indonesia, we landed in the small town of Maumere, in the northeast of Flores. Flores is one of the least developed islands and one of the least touristy (with the exception of Labuanbajo, on the opposite end). It is my favorite, for it has an authenticity that is lost in most places by now.

Our idea was to hire a local driver to cross the island over 3 days/2 nights, stopping at several points of interest, which we believe is the best way to explore it. It was harder than we had anticipated, and after rejecting one driver for high price and one for sketchy manners, we found ourselves negotiating with our last option, with the sun setting and no real alternative. Luckily, the driver ended up accepting our conditions and being a great guy. His name was Stefano, and after a quick stop at his home to pick up a bag and sharing some candy with his 3 kids, we were on our way.

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Machu Picchu, better when you’ve earned it

The lost Inca city of Machi Picchu is one the world’s wonders. The fact that it wasn’t discovered until 1911 speaks to its spectacular setting. To explore it, hordes of tourist take a train plus bus from Cuzco every day… But it’s still possible to reach Machu Pichhu emulating the experience of the ancient Incas, who walked kms and kms through the Urubamba Valley to their sacred city.

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Atacama, a different planet

The Atacama desert, in the north of Chile, is a inhospitable region. At more than 4,000 meters over sea level, temperatures range from -15 to +25ºC in a same day. But also offers some of the most amazing landscapes in the world, and all sorts of outdoors activities. I reached San Pedro de Atacama after yet another long bus ride, connecting in the mining (and rather depressing) city of Antofagasta. San Pedro is a cool village with no functioning ATMs, constant power outages and serious water problems… and crowded with backpackers.

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Perito Moreno and other perfect glaciers

In Calafate I reached the climax of my 3 month South America trip: the Argentinian glaciers, with Perito Moreno as the crown jewel. The pictures can’t do justice to the perfection of the view, nor capture the cracking sound of the ice. You’ll have to trust me: it’s absolutely fascinating. Or better yet, come over to experience it for yourselves.

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Ushuaia, cold days at the end of the world

This week, it was freezing cold, as you would expect when you explore Patagonia in the middle of winter. I spent a couple of days in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Leaving aside the fame of it’s location, and the fact that they abuse the expression “the end of the world x”, the town is really charming and peaceful, and a perfect center for nature excursions.

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Whales, sea lions and more in Peninsula Valdes

From Buenos Aires, we took a long (~18 hrs) but comfortable bus to Peninsula Valdes. The bus stopped in Puerto Madryn, the nearest city, and from there we took a taxi to Puerto Piramides, the small town on the actual peninsula. Peninsula Valdes is the most important natural reserve of Argentina, famous for the abundance of sea mammals. I’d recommend staying in Puerto Piramides; it’s a quite charming town, and you can easily organize any activity directly here.

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Destination guide – Brazil

MUST DO:

  • Rio de Janeiro: Christ the Redeemer, Sugarloaf, Copacabana, Ipanema
  • Salvador de Bahia: historic Pelourinho
  • Lencois Maranheses
  • Taking an Amazon river and rainforest tour
  • Iguazu Falls
  • Eating salgados and drinking sucos

NICE TO HAVE:

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From Brasilia to Iguazu, extreme contrast

Before finalizing my tour of Brazil in Iguazu, I spent 24 hours in Brasilia, the capital of Brazil. Enough to hate it, though also to recommend it to everyone. The urban planning is impressive, and the architecture really cool, it’s surely a one of a kind city. But it’s also a city without a soul. There is no historical downtown, walking to places is mission impossible, locals and visitors (mostly business ones) seem bitter…

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Amazon rainforest

I arrived in Manaus after a long ride on the Nelio Correa, Manaus is an interesting city, an isolated metropolis in the middle of the rainforest, which boomed during the 19th century thanks to rubber trade, and later had to be granted status of Free Economic Zone to subsist. Before embarking in a boat tour (what everyone comes to Manaus for), it’s worth exploring the city by foot, checking out sites like the belle epoque opera house.

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