Arriving at Serengeti

The 5th day of our African adventure had started with a very early game drive in Manyara. After breakfast, we jumped into our jeep ready for a 4-5 hr drive to Seronera Camp, at the heart of Serengeti. The beginning of the road was really good and we made it to Karatu in ~45 min. Our guides deposited the National Parks entry fees and topped up their electronic safari cards. After Karatu, the road goes around the Ngorongoro crater (which we would descent into on our way back two days later) and turns into an uneven track. Suddenly, we saw a big herd of giraffes on our left, reminding us that in Africa, wildlife is all around. Since this was a safe area with no predators, we were allowed to step out of the jeep and walk close to the animals… one of my favorite moments of the trip!

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Every game drive is special

After a full day on the road from Naivasha, crossing the Kenya-Tanzania border in Namanga, saying goodbye to our great guide Charles, hello to our new guide Mike, and having lunch in Arusha, we slept in Mto wa Mbu. We included the Lake Manyara National Park in our itinerary for the same reasons as Naivasha, to break the long drive. It also was supposed to be a unique spot to see climbing lions, though we didn’t. Instead, we learned that every game drive, even when it’s looking unimpressive compared with the famous e.g. Mara, is special in some way.

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Up close and personal with Naivasha hippos

We included Lake Naivasha in our safari itinerary mainly because the drive from Masai Mara to Serengeti is extremely long. Even though they’re de facto the same ecosystem, tourists are not allowed to cross the border through the park. That means that you have to backtrack to Nairobi, cross the border in Namanga, and continue through Arusha. Over 800km, which in those roads ends up being 14-18 hrs, to guarantee that tourists leave their money in both countries.

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Maasai Mara, a wilderness dream

The first destination in our East African safari was Maasai Mara, the crown jewel of Kenyan National Parks. We had planned 1.5 days there, including a game drive in the afternoon of our arrival from Nairobi, and another full day of game drive. July is one of the best months to visit the Mara, as you can see the Great Migration, with 1-2 million wildebeest, ~0.5 million gazelles and ~0.3 million zebras. If you get lucky, you might even see the hordes crossing the Grumeti or Mara rivers, being attacked by crocodiles. Getting the timing right, however, is really hard, as it changes every year depending on the rains. We were one week late for the river crossing, but enjoyed the massive amount of grazers on the Mara plains.

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Getting ready for safari in Nairobi

Since I was a kid, I always had wanted to go on an African safari. Last summer, I finally convinced myself and Elena to do it, now that the prices had become affordable. Last minute, my mom (my true traveling hero) decided to join us, after her plans to go to Ethiopia fell apart.

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What to do during a layover in Dubai

Dubai is a perfect short stop on a trip to Africa. You can usually get the cheapest flights with Emirates and do a 1 day layover in the city. This is enough to see the highlights. We had a 15 hour layover on our way from LA to Nairobi, and although it was mainly at night, we decided to make the most out of it. The airport is very close to the city and the border controls are very efficient, so just 1 hour after landing, we were checking in into the Sheraton on Sheikh Ziyeed Road, the artery of the business downtown (free with SPG points!).

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Top 10 travel inspiration – Films

Movies have the ability not only to expose us to different worlds, but also to inspire us and make us dream.

My ten favorite travel films of all times are:

  1. The Motorcycle Diaries (Argentina, Peru et al): A young Ernesto Che Guevara travels around South American with his good friend Alberto Granados, discovering the injustices that will change him forever. I watched it when I was in Chicago for a year during college, my Argentinian friends Emi and Juan gave it to me. Two years later, I was backpacking a similar route on my own.
  2. Kon-Tiki (Polynesia): In 1947, Norwegian anthropologist Thor Heyerdahl attempts to prove that Polynesia was originally colonized from South America, by crossing the Pacific in a balsa-wood raft with 5 friends. As crazy as it sounds, a true story. I watched the 2012 feature this year, as I was preparing a trip to the South Pacific, and then found the 1950 Oscar-winning documentary with Thor’s footage.
  3. Seven Years in Tibet (Tibet, China): Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer is climbing in the Himalayas when World War II ends, and has to take shelter in Tibet, becoming friends with the Dalai Lama as the Chinese take over. I watched this one randomly in Madrid, and immediately decided that I would go to China and make it to Lhasa.
  4. Shackleton (Antarctica): In 1914, explorer Ernest Shackleton leads the Endurance expedition to the South Pole, and has to pull an epic feat to get his crew back to safety when his ship is crushed in the ice. Includes the most memorable ad in history: Men wanted for hazardous journey, small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful, honor and recognition in case of success. Elena and I watched it as we were preparing for our trip to Nepal and completely obsessed with survival stories.
  5. Into The Wild (Alaska et al): A wealthy student gives up all his comforts and hitchhikes across North America to live in the Alaskan wilderness. I watched it in theaters with my good friend Oscar; it was the best way to take a break in our library marathons during exams.
  6. The Beach (Thailand): Leonardo di Caprio finds a secret backpacker community in a paradise island, where everything is perfect until it’s not. It’s the first fiction in this list, but somehow every time I travel to tropical destinations, I expect to stumble on one of these societies.
  7. Out of Africa (Kenya): In the early 20th century, a Danish baroness who runs a plantation in British East Africa falls in love with a big-game hunter. I remember watching this movie on TV with my mom, when I was a kid, and getting excited about the day I would go on a safari.
  8. Before Sunrise, Before Sunset and Before Midnight (Austria, France and Greece): Two young adults meet in a train in Wien and spend the night walking and talking, and obviously, falling in love. They reunite years later in Paris and down the road, spend time together in the Greek islands. I watched the first film with my friend Maria in Chicago, the second one in Madrid on my own, and the last one with Elena in LA. As my college buddy Manu put it: you have to be in the right moment of your life to really get each of these movies.
  9. The Darjeeling Limited (India): Three estranged brothers travel across colorful India by train to visit their mother, who is living in a Himalayan convent. It’s impossible to watch this film and not want to travel to there asap. I watched it back home in Spain with Iñaki, and for the next four years until I made the trip, the images remained vivid.
  10. Y Tu Mama Tambien (Mexico): Two teenagers convince an attractive woman to join them on a road trip to a secluded beach. As they cross the country, they discuss life and expose the political and social reality. I watched this one in Chicago during college; where we had an awesome Hispanic community that really defined my links to the continent.

But there are so many more films worth watching: Life of Pi (India), Lost in Translation (Japan), The Way Back (Russia), Eat Pray Love (Italy, India, Indonesia), The English Patient (Egypt), Midnight in Paris (France), The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (Iceland et al), 127 Hours (USA), Amelie (various), Up (Venezuela), The Quiet American (Vietnam), The Mission (Argentina), Dances with Wolves (USA)… I’d even consider Indiana Jones and The Curious Case of Benjamin Button excellent travel films.

Destination guide – Costa Rica

MUST DO

  • Hiking in Corovado National Park
  • Beaches and forest in Manuel Antonio National Park (despite the hordes of tourists)
  • Waterfalls in Rio Celeste
  • Leatherback turtles in Las Baulas National Marine Park
  • Tropical juices

NICE TO HAVE:

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Beach and more nature in Manuel Antonio

A few more hours of driving, this time on a nice road, and a quick stop at a crocodile-infested river, and we made it to our final stop: Manuel Antonio. The first nights we decided to stay close to the National Park entrance, in Manuel Antonio proper. That way we would be there before most tourists (it gets crowded in peak season), and we could enjoy the local beach. This area was much more touristy than all the other places, more expensive and “Americanized”, though we still found really good food and juices 🙂

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