Aftermath in Kathmandu

It has been a bit over 24 hours since Kathmandu suffered the brutal earthquake, and you can still feel a tense calm in the air.

Our arrival in Kathmandu yesterday morning was surreal. 2 weeks ago I had decided to take a leave of absence and hike to the Everest Base Camp, an adventure that had been in my bucket list for years. As we boarded the plane that would take us from LAX to Guangzhou for a layover, we couldn’t imagine how much of an adventure we were getting ourselves into. The moment we landed, my phone started buzzing with messages, missed calls and emails… “Are you ok?” “Please call us” and similar. It took me a couple of minutes to realize what was going on.

IMG_3169 01-IMG_8878

The following 2 hours at the airport were filled with frenzy activity, as we and a bunch of other travelers tried to gather information and decide whether to continue to Kathmandu. Different embassies offered different advice (mostly discouraging, to be honest) while the airline, China Southern, was useless. Hotels and trekking agencies in Kathmandu weren’t picking up their phones, but it was unclear if it was because it was too early or because the lines were broken/saturated. At that point, we were absolutely confused, we didn’t know what to expect: some destruction but life getting back to normal over the next hours, or complete chaos and lack of shelter, food and water. About half of the travelers decided to stay…. We reflected for a couple more minutes, while the plane was boarding and people were pulling their bags out, and finally decided to go.

02-IMG_8882 1-011-IMG_8891 03-IMG_8889 04-IMG_8886

After asking the hotel concierge to keep our backpacks, we went on an exploratory walk of the city, trying always to stay on wide streets. What we saw, we will never forget. Hundreds of people had abandoned their homes and were “camping” on parks, palace gardens, roundabouts, and pretty much any open space of the city. People were clearly scared, many of them having lost friends or acquaintances the previous days, and just wanted to feel safe. Large amounts of debris and destroyed buildings were a macabre reminder of what had occurred, and could happen again. After a couple hours walking, we stopped at the only open restaurant we could find, and they served us the only dish that was available.

06-IMG_8895 07-IMG_8896 08-IMG_8901 09-IMG_8904 10-IMG_8905 11-IMG_8908

Our last stop was probably the most impressive locations: Durbar Square, the historic heart of Kathmandu, and one of the most beautiful architectural sites in the world. Its wonderful temples and shrines had suffered different levels of destruction, but were for the most part, still standing. Locals were also crammed in the open spaces in this plaza, and there was a post giving out relief packages. Most of the people taking pictures around me, were reporters. Sitting atop of one of the collapsed pyramids, observing the whole scene, it gave me chills.

13-IMG_8922 14-IMG_8923 15-IMG_8925 16-IMG_8933 17-IMG_8941 18-IMG_8949

Back at the Yak & Yeti hotel, it was time to figure out how to spend the night. The hotel manager was recommending all the guests to get the blankets from their rooms and set up outside. Each family or group was organizing itself the best it could, using lawn chairs, umbrellas… We had two problems: we didn’t have a room (the hotel was fully booked) and grey clouds were coming in. We had to move quickly. First, we secured a garden table to sleep under, and a wooden board to lay on. Then, I went around the hotel rooms until I found one open and empty (I knew many tourists had fled without officially checking out), and grabbed blankets and pillows. Elena then found some bed covers that we used to cover the table, creating a sort of tent. The night was cold but we managed to stay warm, and slept almost uninterruptedly. It wasn’t the two tremors (apparently) that woke us up, but the strong rain making our feet wet. We compressed ourselves a bit more, and dozed until sunrise. I felt like I was in Hotel Rwanda.

1-008-IMG_8888 1-068a

This morning we continued mastering our pirate skills and took over an empty room to clean ourselves, prepare some hot cocoa and recharge electronics. We felt proud of our resourcefulness! Right now our plan is to wait one more day (for a total of 72 hours that the authorities flagged as high risk), and then decided if we can go ahead with our original plan of hiking to EBC. Will continue informing live from Kathmandu, internet permitting.

4 thoughts on “Aftermath in Kathmandu

  1. Pingback: En route to Everest | Bona Travels

  2. Pingback: Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory | Bona Travels

  3. Pingback: Country summary – Nepal | Bona Travels

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s